Teotihuacan-The City of the Gods

Yes, I went there a few weeks ago and this is late in being posted, but I've been busy with riots.

Pictures of Teotihuacan

Pyramid of the Sun
Pyramid of the Moon
Living Areas
Statues and Murals



Day One. Getting there.

Ah, the Mexican bus system. While it’s very efficient, it can get on your nerves. My Dad and I took a first class bus to Teotihuacan. And while it sure beats driving through Mexico City, it did leave a few things to be desired.

First. I’d like to say that it is NOT first class when compared with First class with like...the airlines.

First, they play HORRIBLE movies. Not even B-rated but movies with a budget of a few thousand at best. The first was French. There were orphans and singing. Enough said, The only movie in English was about a fictional rock group. They were cloned. And after hearing them sing, one can only wonder WHY.

Finally, the seats recline so far back that the person in front of you is in your lap. If the guy in front of me turned over we’d be have sex right now. And considering he’s rather cute—not a bad idea. At least it would kill the time because the screaming baby and the girl singing behind me are NOT helping pass the time on a six hour bus ride.

BUT the trial and tribulations of riding on a buss for half-a-day were worth it when we arrived at Teotihuacan. There are no words for a site this large and complex. Breathtaking? Awe inspiring?

I think the best word is humbling. To think that people built this complex without the help of machines make you realize what people can accomplish when motivated. Or are slaves. Or if a government is simply looking to keep it’s population working. Or if they have alien help.

One thing about Teotihuacan is that they don’t know who built it and so all of the hypothesis about it’s people are just that—hypothesis

Day Two:

Our first day at Teotihuacan and Dad I went early in an effort to see the place before it was overrun with tourists. It was a good move. We hiked up the Pyramid of the Sun, and other than a French guy, we were the only people there. Very well worth it. The view. The construction. The sheer effort it takes to hike up a pyramid where the stairs vary widely in height and steepness…

It does make me wonder how long it took the people to contract such a monolith. Generations is my guess.

Next, we walked over to the Temple of the Moon. While smaller than the Pyramid of the Sun, I think it’s prettier. It’s also situated at the end of the Avenue of the Dead (the pyramid lined street that goes through the site) which make the view more impressive.

Much like the pyramids at Monte Alban in Oaxaca, the stair that scale the initial level of the Pyramid of the Moon are over a foot in height. What the hell is that about? From skeletal data, it looks like the people were short. Did they climb up? I can’t think of anything else unless there was a race of giants that we don’t’ know about…

The rest of the day, we spent wandering around the site. Now I know what doesn’t sound like much, but if you saw the site, you’d understand the scale of what ‘wandering’ means. The site is X in length and X in width and there are STAIRS everywhere. You can’t throw a rock without hitting a set and I think we’ve gone up Every. Single. One.

We also ventured off the beaten path and hiked up a few pyramids that were not excavated as of yet. VERY cool. Granted, we didn’t find anything (not like we were digging or anything) but we did see walls and the like. I know some of you are shaking your finger at me and saying “Bad Sharron.” Hey, it’s not like we excavated anything. And we even left the pot shards in place (and they are everywhere!)

Dad estimated that we walked about ten miles and it sure as hell felt like it. I was crippled by the end of the first day. I mean crippled!

Day Three:

I explored more ruins—saw a dwelling that still had the remains of murals. What stunned me (like a monkey) is that a thousand years ago, some woman had these painted. I could see her standing there, haranguing the painter (or not) but basically getting the house to look like what she wanted. Perhaps making her husband nuts in the process

I finally came home around 4 because OH MY GOD my feet were KILLING ME. I had blisters on top of blisters and I am NOT exaggerating,. I just don’t get it. I have worn these hiking shoes umpteen times but I got blisters where. Perhaps it’s the fact that I was walking on stone all day. Wined helped. Even better, was that sitting by the pool, under a covered area with a thunderstorm going overhead. Thunder. Lightening. The sky raged!

...time passes...

A slice of chocolate cake later, a glass of red wine, a raging thunderstorm later, and memories of one of the most spectacular sites in the Americas…. and I didn’t ever care that my feet hurt.

Time To Go To The Beach

They’ve decided to bring the Army to Oaxaca on the idea that it will imprive the current political climate. Sure....it might. Perhaps it’ll make things better. Quiet the protestors. (picture me rolling my eyes while I type that) The last time they tried force i.e. tear gassing the teachers, it only escalated the situation.

I am betting military men in uniform is going to have the same effect. CHAOS.

I miss Oaxaca.

Right now, the streets are filled with garbage and I don’t think there is a single building that doesn’t have graffiti all over it. Tourists are few and far between.

On a really odd note that has nothing to do with the protestors, I was with my Dad yesterday (going to the zocolo for lunch) and we’re walking downtown and there was a man either asleep or passed out on the sidewalk. Something you see in every city. Sad but a reality. What made this different is that he had NO PANTS.

I mean starkers from the waist down.

Here’s what I wonder...what do you do when you wake up on a crowded sidewalk with no pant? Do you act like it’s normal? That it was planned? Do you care?

Or do you widen the hole in your t-shirt and wear it as a skirt?

I am praying I NEVER find out!

Update on Escalation in Oaxaca

AFTERNOON UPDATE:
Slides on today's foray into Oaxaca

Dad came over and we walked down to the zocolo (square). I didn't see any military presence (they came in last night). Personally, I think they will come back at tonight when it is less likely they will be seen and/or photographed. If I was trying to repress a people with force...that's how I'd do it!

There were still mobs of people in the street--but peaceful mobs. No threats or anything like that. I could count the number of tourists on one hand.

While we didn't feel threatened, there was a weird quiet in the air. I'd say a feeling of expectation but that might be me projecting--who knows. But it was very very quiet.

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The buses aren't running yet but the collctivos are so my Dad is coming in to the house. Which means, I might have a FIGHT on my hands as I planned to go downtown this afternoon. Why go downtown? The Army is coming in and frankly, I'd like to get some pictures. I know. I know. Stay out of the chaos!

Seriously, when will I ever get the chance to see something like this again? And if you know me you know I simply HAVE to see what's around the corner--even if it's a rebllion in progress.

Although someone was killed this morning so I suspect it'll get very crazy very quickly.

So who knows...may go...may not. Guess I'll have to see!

Escalation In Oaxaca

The roads in and out of Oaxaca have been blocked for a while by the teachers (I believe). Frankly, it was annoying but didn’t’ bother me too much. Sure as heck didn't frighten me.

Now, it’s getting worse. The government thugs are here and we have fun new developments:

Roads are blocked coming up as far as my street. You cannot leave the city.
The city is closed. Hotels have locked their doors. Grocery stores are closed. Banks are closed.
I'm betting the airport is closed as well. (not that I plan to leave)
People are being kidnapped.
The government thugs shot up the newspaper last week and a TV station last night

Let me say that as a tourist/long-term visitor, I don't feel unsafe. Yet. It helps that I live in a veritable fortress on a hill. To get to me takes too much work. Plus...why?

Still, it's a rebellion and common sense dictates that running around during the chaos is simply STUPID. People are smart. Mobs are dumb. Better to stay put and wait it out.

And here I’d planned to go to the zocolo for lunch...

Two..Two...Two Sites in One!

Cacaxtla Pictures


Xochitecatl Pictures

Two sites, Cacaxtla and Xochitécatl, reside outside the little two of Tlaxcala and are almost on top of each other. And according to the people at the sites, even had an alliance at one point. Nor surprising when you can almost throw a rock and hit either one or the other.

We went to Cacaxtla first. Now abandoned (like most sites in Mexico) Cacaxtla reached it max splendor (700-900 AD) following the decline of Teotihuacán at the same time as other sites such as Vera Cruz, consolidated their power.

In it’s last phase, Cacaxtla was inhabited by the Olmeca-Xicalancas. Not sure who the Xocalancas were but the Olmecs were the ones that carved the GINORMOUS stone heads.

No giant stone heads here but there are murals in Cacaxtla. And they are just as impressive anything carved from stone. Distinctive for blending Teotihuacan and Maya Elements, the murals are wonderfully preserved site due to the fact they built a ginormous metal roof over the entire thing. So hey, there is something here of monolithic proportions!

It’s also a heck of a climb to get to the murals. I went with my father, uncle and Tony and we trundled around the site. It's impressive in an of itself what with the columns, rooms, etc. But the murals steal the show and I could have spent hours sitting there staring at them, but alas, when you travel with others they generally do NOT appreciate you sitting there while they waitr. sigh


If you ever go, make sure you stop on the way out for lunch. There’s a lovely woman making blue corn quesadilla’s that are too die for. I had pine with pumpkin flowers—YUM.

After lunch, we drove over to Xochitécatl. More traditional in that there are pyramids, etc. I climbed up them since that’s what I do!. What a wonderful view. I can see why these people (either Cacaxtla or Xochitécatl) considered themselves rulers of the area. It would be hard not too when you can see the entire valley at your feet. I know I was feeling fairly powerful standing up there.

There's also an intriguing spiral pyramid which they think was used for astronomical observation. Someone stuck a big cross on it. Frankly, I think that's a rude, but I guess I should be glad it wasn't a whole freaking church.

I should be queen. If I were, no one would stick crosses or churches on archaeological sites. I would make a good Queen. Benevolent. But tough.

Probably very little human sacrifice.

Cholula-Home to the Biggest Pyramid in the World

Cholula Pictures

An example of a blending of church and original religious site is Cholula. The names means ‘place of those who fled’ or ‘ Water that falls in the place of flight’. Either way, these people had run from something!

When you first see Cholula, all you see is a hill with a church on top of it. After walking around it and reading, you realize that it’s nota hill. It’s an ancient, uncovered pyramid. The biggest in the world. Not as tall as the one is Giza but larger in ground coverage.

Even more fun is that it is catacomb with tunnels. For 35 pesos, you can walk through them. I read somewhere that there are 5 miles of tunnel—not a shocker when one considers the size of the structure. Much to my disappointment, most are gated off. I can imagine that most people would get lost quite quickly. Then after a while they’d get claustrophobic.

I imagine at some point, they’d just start screaming and running around like a crazy person.

Even with the limited tunnel access, it’s an impressive site. After you so the ‘tunnel thing’ you can walk around the recently excavated areas and what you’ll notice is that the original people were really into alters. There is a set of three that are just south of the great pyramid. One faces North and the other two face east and west. Another uncovered one was used when sacrificing children during dry seasons. It was believed they were the messengers of Tlaloc an would ask for rain.

So I guess there is an alter for lots of contingencies.

Finally, another fun and interesting things to do in Cholula is buying road snacks AKA fried grasshoppers coated with chili powder. I know it sounds gross, but they were good as long as you didn’t’ look too close. A word on eating friend grasshoppers--get the small ones. The legs on the bigs ones are a little on the creepy side.

Wonder if they have an alter for those...Alter of the Sacrificial Grasshoppers...

Puebla--my visit to the big city

View Slideshow of Churches in Puebla

Wow--home again after traveling for a few weeks. Let's start with--PUEBLA

Puebla has a lot to offer. A large city, it offers shopping (for things like sneakers) which can be hard to find in Oaxaca. Plus, it’s an easy central location if one wants to visit some other archaeological sites.

What I loved about Puebla were the churches. Now, if you know me, I check the box that says ‘spiritual but not religious’ when forms insist on asking me about my religion. But, one does not have to be religious to appreciate great churches (not The Church). And churches are everywhere in Puebla. You cannot throw a rock without hitting one.

Rife with ornate tiles, guild and stone, they are impressive in their construction and the amount of money they contain. Which if you don’t mind me getting on a soapbox for a minute—would have been better spent to help the local people. Instead, the indigenous were made into slaves and their religious sites destroyed and the churches built on top of it.

So seeing a beautiful church in Mexico is much a yin/yang moment. They are beautiful. Amazing. Grand. But they were built on blood and one can’t every truly forget that.

Okay—off the soapbox...

Alas, poor Yolanda. We barely knew ye!

I got home last night to dead mice. Specifially. DEAD BABY MICE.

I was totally creeped out. Luckily, my Dad was here to dispose of the tiny carcasses. Ewwww.

I can handle dead animals out in the wild. Hunting doesn't bother me. But bodies in the house are just too much for me.

So I guess Pepe really is Yolanda.

Yoland was a mouse.
Small. Grey.
Not a great nouse, but a mouse nonetheless.
I'd say I'd miss her but I'd be lying.
Alas, poor Yolanda. We barely knew ye!

LIVE-From an Internet Cafe in Puebla, Mexico

First, an addition to the UNIVERSAL TRUTH LIST:

Barney is CREEPY in any language.

Second, my Dad is in town and I am traveling this week and possibly the next. So—for a little while the focus will NOT be on Oaxaca. Which is fine considering that I am RAPIDLY losing sympathy for the teachers.

Well, not the teachers but the radical faction that is remaining and making everyone miserable. They need to be smacked at this rate.

Anyway, Today I am on Puebla and am posting from an Internet cafe.
Puebla is a bigger city and very different from Oaxaca.

Oaxaca vs. Puebla

PUEBLA
SUPER -CLEAN. Not as clean as, say, Germany, but clean. Sadly, Oaxaca is litter city and that’s one of the things that I dislike about it.

NO GRAFFITI. Okay, very little graffiti. Again, I can only compare it to Oaxaca which has graffiti all over. And it’s not even good graffiti but crappy. Like peoples name. BORING

COPS: Normally, I am not a huge fan of having a plethora of cops around but here, in Mexico, I’m starting to like them. At least the ones in Puebla.

OAXACA
NICER PEOPLE. Homeless are a reality. In Oaxaca, even the homeless are polite. If they ask you for a few pesos and you say no, they smile no big deal. In Puebla, a little old lady tried to sell me a rosary and when I said ‘No thanks you” (cause I’m polite) I thought she was going to choke me with it.

Whatever she said, it wasn’t polite.

SMALL TOWN There is something about a small town which is just comfortable. Puebla is filled with cars and people are everywhere. And because it is bigger, it’s a heck of a lot harder to get around.

BETTER CHOCOLATE: What can I say. I am a sucker for chocolate and the BEST is found in Oaxaca.

Puebla, is a nice place to visit but I wouldn’t want to live here.

Note to self...be smarter than the mouse

Poison
Sticky Traps
Snap traps
Broom

None of it works. Pepe LIVES!

Damned mouse.

I think I'll make him into a pet. Maybe

Potty Mouth in Spanish Class

Ah yes, Spanish class. And once again, my teacher is falling over laughing.

Here's the sitch: Celso (my tutor) has a picture of three people and I have to describe them. A fairly simple task....one would think. I am going over the basic stuff-color of their hair, their height, etc.

Finally, I am saying their positions. And not--NOT anything porno ya bunch of pervs! Where they are and what they are doing.

The girl is sitting. One man is standing and the other man is leaning. I am TRYING to say that he is leaning. Well, apparently, the word for leaning, recargado, is very close (or it's very close the way I am trying to say it) to the word for taking a dump. (Frankly, not my favorite phrase but if you can come up with a better way to say it--let me know)

Anyway, I am SO EMPHATIC in trying to say this that it give the impression that the guy is taking a HUGE dump!! And one that lasts FOREVER!

I’d say, Poor Celso, but I’m fairly sure I was his entertainment for the afternoon!

The Mouse in My House

UPDATE 8/3: Cathy thinks we should name him Pepe--so let's go with that. I like that one because it's a male name and I can keep my delusion that there is NO CHANCE this rodent will give birth to more. I SWEAR, if that happens, I will find a new place to live!

Anyway, Pepe lives. He actually got caught by one of the sticky traps and GOT OFF of it! It was horrible though--he was running around with it. EEWWWW

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I’ve been under the gun with edits this week and so have stayed holed up in the house—so not much to write about unless you want to hear about editing. Which you don’t. Trust me.

BUT—I’m not alone. Oh noooooo. The Mouse that refused to be caught is still here. For a while I thought maybe he lived outside and was scooting in under the door. If so, he’s decided to live here now.

I got a good look at him this morning as he sat on a box, winked at me, and then flipped me off. Okay, maybe not flip me off but when a rodent is that brazen it’s like they’re giving you the finger.

Still, he’s a cute little guy. Or girl. Part of me wants to name him.

But the sane part of me realizes that it’s bad to name the animal you plan to exterminate.

I just wish he’d leave.