FAV Travel Sites

I miss my camera. I'm having a great time and wish I could share them with the world via pictures but my camera broke. In the meantime--some of my favorite travel sites:

Where the Hell Is Matt: A GREAT site. I'd love to do something like that. If someone can think of something other than dancing that I could do--I'd love to hear it. I can only come up with twirling and kissing strangers.

BootsnAll Travel: a community of those that like to travel the Unbeaten path. I've gone here to the Boards for question and information more than once and people are always helpful. Great information on hostels, hotels, out-of-the-way places to eat...whatever you need in a foreign country.

Journey Woman: For those women who travel alone (like moi!) Articles, suggestions, Tips and Tales!

GoNOMAD: For those that want to travel AND get involved. Anything from training elephants in Thailand to Volunteering in Nigeria.

Conshohocken, PA—I Vote it the Best Place to Break Down in a Car

There I was, driving down the Penn turnpike, dodging trucks and thinking, "wow, this trip is truly uneventful so far," when the gods-of-travel decided to make me eat my words.

That ended me up on the side of the road, calling for help and after towage-- paying 300 dollars for an alternator.

All in all, a pain in the ass, but not the worst thing in the world because I got to hang out with the lovely men of Coshohocken, PA (at the Conshohocken Exxon ServiceCenter) for sic hours.

George. Older man. Hangs out at the gas station/garage where my car was getting worked on. For two hours he talked to me. He worked at the Pentagon during the war (not sure which one was). Made a fortune. Lost a fortune. Married for twelve years. She walked out. He refers to the owner of the station and his son as Bill and “The Boy”.

Bill Ivens: Nicest man ever. But gets seriously wigged out when a woman cries. Seriously. I think he got a little freaked. But a classic alpha male in that if you ask him how the work is going, he'll tell you the truth.

Me, “How’s it going?”
Bill, “Not well.”
Me, “What?!”
Bill, “Would you rather I lie?”

How do you answer that? What I really wanted was to not have asked the question. After I started crying, I think Bill felt much the same way.

The Boy: Also known as Raymond. Good kid and a total cutie. Doesn’t drink because he thinks woman wont want a man that drinks. Ray—you’re right. Women do not like drunks. But learning wine is always a good thing.

Also told me that George checks the pay phone when he leaves. Does it everyday. I love details like that.

And I love small towns. This one is worth checking out. Especially if your car breaks down.

Adventures from the road

I am traveling to NJ. A long way from Oaxaca but there's a beachhouse for me to stay in. Bonus!

I decided to drive my car from TX.

Up until about an hour ago (before my car broke down on the Pennsylvania turnpike) this was a fairly uneventful trip. Which is what one looks for in a roadtrip. While breakdowns in small towns are great for movies, they suck in real life.

But let’s start with the nice stuff first. I’ll get to the breakdown later.

Sharron’s Random Observations along the way:

1) 1-40 is (in my head) is now, officially, the Corridor of Porn. You want to find an Adult book store? Just drive down I-40 in the south. My favorite one was the store at the top of the off-ramp and at the bottom of the ramp was a big sign that said “what you lose when you read porn...EVERYTHING” .

I can just imagine the town meetings. The chaos. The name calling. The giggling in the back row.

2) We’ve all seen weird road names. And even driving at 75 mph, a few are memorable. My favorite road names? Bucksnort Rd. and Scratchy Gravel road.

And let's not leave out 'Hungry Mother State Park.'

3)I was at a gas station in Arkansas and went to the ladies room., There were two toilets. No stalls. Just two toilet side-by-side. I don’t know about you, but I don’t know anyone well enough to sit next to them without a wall between us.

4) Biggest thrill: A herd of tiny horses. Yes! One of the highlights of the trip. A herd of miniature horses on the hill. I wanted to stop and just shove one in the trunk. Or a pocket.

5) Worst hotel: Motel Six. I used to stay at them all the time. But no more. I stayed at one in TN and it was questionable. They charged extra for me to have a ground floor room and the tub didn’t drain. I thought it sucked. Then I stopped at on in VA thinking that the bad experience was an aberration. Nope. There was one towel, the room had a funky smell and the sink didn’t work. The best part? There was a no-smoking sign on the door and an ashtray in the room.

Seriously uneventful. Until now...

Update on Oaxaca

A quick update on Oaxaca. I spoke with a friend who lives there and it’s tough. 38 hotels have closed and around thousands of jobs lost. The police arrived yesterday and the zocolo is closed.

On the upside, people are still traveling into the area as there is a lot to do and see outside of Oaxaca.

A part of me wishes I’d stayed but I guess I got out at the right time. I still miss the city though. And the people. And the food.

I hope this ends soon!

Not about travel but all about friendship

This has nothing to do with traveling but everything to do with my best friend, Cathy Pegau. Also a writer, she is a finalist in the American Title contest--figure that it’s American Idle but for writers. Anyway, voting has begun and this round is on the first sentence of the book. While I could be all politically correct and say “Vote for the Best’ what I am going to say is Vote for Cathy.

I don’t know the other writers, and I am sure they are fine, fine people, but they’ve never had my back on a recon mission.

Wait! Neither did Cathy…so that’s beside the point. Anyway, I’ve read the book and it’s worthy of being published IMHO.

So please go vote. Here’s the website: http://www.romantictimes.com/news_amtitle.php

And all you have to do is Email the Webmaster with her title in the subject line: HAUNTED

And if you want to see just how freaking amazing she is as a writer (and as a person but we’re not voting for that) go read a short excerpt on her site: http://www.cathypegau.com/

Seriously, the girl is a hoot!

Yahoo Time Capsule

Yahoo.com is making an electronic time capsule: Yahoo Time Capsule

I think it's a great idea and have already made a contribution:
Teotihuacan


And plan to do more.

The time capsule is only open for another month. Take the time to send something!

Where in the World is Sharron?

Wow...and just when you thought I got caught in a riot and was lying in the gutter...I pop back up!

And right now, I am NOT in Oaxaca. I am in Los Angeles visiting my sister. Why? Because I got tired of the smell of burning tires. The lack of buses. The trash cluttering the streets. The graffiti. The riots.

I said it before and I'll say it again...I MISS MY OAXACA! The one I found when I first went there. The CLEAN place that didn't smell.

Anyway, I arrived in LA about a week or so ago and I have to say that it's not unlike living in a foreign country or perhaps, another planet. I haven’t done much besides write as I have a book due in a few weeks so the travel info might be a bit more spread out.

As weird as LA is, or LaLa Land as Cathy calls it, they have some fun things here. La Brea tar pits. Stripper shoes. Disney. Movies Stars. (Oh! I saw Juliet Landau at the store—she played Drusilla on Buffy the Vampire Slayer. Wow, is she short!) There doesn’t seem to be a huge amount of archaeology here, but I’m looking. The Sunday scientology buffet...come on...you know it so would be something interesting/bizarre to blog about!

But as fun as this is, I have to confess, I miss Mexico. The people. The archaeology. The food.

Still, there is something to be said for showers with water pressure...

Teotihuacan-The City of the Gods

Yes, I went there a few weeks ago and this is late in being posted, but I've been busy with riots.

Pictures of Teotihuacan

Pyramid of the Sun
Pyramid of the Moon
Living Areas
Statues and Murals



Day One. Getting there.

Ah, the Mexican bus system. While it’s very efficient, it can get on your nerves. My Dad and I took a first class bus to Teotihuacan. And while it sure beats driving through Mexico City, it did leave a few things to be desired.

First. I’d like to say that it is NOT first class when compared with First class with like...the airlines.

First, they play HORRIBLE movies. Not even B-rated but movies with a budget of a few thousand at best. The first was French. There were orphans and singing. Enough said, The only movie in English was about a fictional rock group. They were cloned. And after hearing them sing, one can only wonder WHY.

Finally, the seats recline so far back that the person in front of you is in your lap. If the guy in front of me turned over we’d be have sex right now. And considering he’s rather cute—not a bad idea. At least it would kill the time because the screaming baby and the girl singing behind me are NOT helping pass the time on a six hour bus ride.

BUT the trial and tribulations of riding on a buss for half-a-day were worth it when we arrived at Teotihuacan. There are no words for a site this large and complex. Breathtaking? Awe inspiring?

I think the best word is humbling. To think that people built this complex without the help of machines make you realize what people can accomplish when motivated. Or are slaves. Or if a government is simply looking to keep it’s population working. Or if they have alien help.

One thing about Teotihuacan is that they don’t know who built it and so all of the hypothesis about it’s people are just that—hypothesis

Day Two:

Our first day at Teotihuacan and Dad I went early in an effort to see the place before it was overrun with tourists. It was a good move. We hiked up the Pyramid of the Sun, and other than a French guy, we were the only people there. Very well worth it. The view. The construction. The sheer effort it takes to hike up a pyramid where the stairs vary widely in height and steepness…

It does make me wonder how long it took the people to contract such a monolith. Generations is my guess.

Next, we walked over to the Temple of the Moon. While smaller than the Pyramid of the Sun, I think it’s prettier. It’s also situated at the end of the Avenue of the Dead (the pyramid lined street that goes through the site) which make the view more impressive.

Much like the pyramids at Monte Alban in Oaxaca, the stair that scale the initial level of the Pyramid of the Moon are over a foot in height. What the hell is that about? From skeletal data, it looks like the people were short. Did they climb up? I can’t think of anything else unless there was a race of giants that we don’t’ know about…

The rest of the day, we spent wandering around the site. Now I know what doesn’t sound like much, but if you saw the site, you’d understand the scale of what ‘wandering’ means. The site is X in length and X in width and there are STAIRS everywhere. You can’t throw a rock without hitting a set and I think we’ve gone up Every. Single. One.

We also ventured off the beaten path and hiked up a few pyramids that were not excavated as of yet. VERY cool. Granted, we didn’t find anything (not like we were digging or anything) but we did see walls and the like. I know some of you are shaking your finger at me and saying “Bad Sharron.” Hey, it’s not like we excavated anything. And we even left the pot shards in place (and they are everywhere!)

Dad estimated that we walked about ten miles and it sure as hell felt like it. I was crippled by the end of the first day. I mean crippled!

Day Three:

I explored more ruins—saw a dwelling that still had the remains of murals. What stunned me (like a monkey) is that a thousand years ago, some woman had these painted. I could see her standing there, haranguing the painter (or not) but basically getting the house to look like what she wanted. Perhaps making her husband nuts in the process

I finally came home around 4 because OH MY GOD my feet were KILLING ME. I had blisters on top of blisters and I am NOT exaggerating,. I just don’t get it. I have worn these hiking shoes umpteen times but I got blisters where. Perhaps it’s the fact that I was walking on stone all day. Wined helped. Even better, was that sitting by the pool, under a covered area with a thunderstorm going overhead. Thunder. Lightening. The sky raged!

...time passes...

A slice of chocolate cake later, a glass of red wine, a raging thunderstorm later, and memories of one of the most spectacular sites in the Americas…. and I didn’t ever care that my feet hurt.

Time To Go To The Beach

They’ve decided to bring the Army to Oaxaca on the idea that it will imprive the current political climate. Sure....it might. Perhaps it’ll make things better. Quiet the protestors. (picture me rolling my eyes while I type that) The last time they tried force i.e. tear gassing the teachers, it only escalated the situation.

I am betting military men in uniform is going to have the same effect. CHAOS.

I miss Oaxaca.

Right now, the streets are filled with garbage and I don’t think there is a single building that doesn’t have graffiti all over it. Tourists are few and far between.

On a really odd note that has nothing to do with the protestors, I was with my Dad yesterday (going to the zocolo for lunch) and we’re walking downtown and there was a man either asleep or passed out on the sidewalk. Something you see in every city. Sad but a reality. What made this different is that he had NO PANTS.

I mean starkers from the waist down.

Here’s what I wonder...what do you do when you wake up on a crowded sidewalk with no pant? Do you act like it’s normal? That it was planned? Do you care?

Or do you widen the hole in your t-shirt and wear it as a skirt?

I am praying I NEVER find out!

Update on Escalation in Oaxaca

AFTERNOON UPDATE:
Slides on today's foray into Oaxaca

Dad came over and we walked down to the zocolo (square). I didn't see any military presence (they came in last night). Personally, I think they will come back at tonight when it is less likely they will be seen and/or photographed. If I was trying to repress a people with force...that's how I'd do it!

There were still mobs of people in the street--but peaceful mobs. No threats or anything like that. I could count the number of tourists on one hand.

While we didn't feel threatened, there was a weird quiet in the air. I'd say a feeling of expectation but that might be me projecting--who knows. But it was very very quiet.

***************************************


The buses aren't running yet but the collctivos are so my Dad is coming in to the house. Which means, I might have a FIGHT on my hands as I planned to go downtown this afternoon. Why go downtown? The Army is coming in and frankly, I'd like to get some pictures. I know. I know. Stay out of the chaos!

Seriously, when will I ever get the chance to see something like this again? And if you know me you know I simply HAVE to see what's around the corner--even if it's a rebllion in progress.

Although someone was killed this morning so I suspect it'll get very crazy very quickly.

So who knows...may go...may not. Guess I'll have to see!

Escalation In Oaxaca

The roads in and out of Oaxaca have been blocked for a while by the teachers (I believe). Frankly, it was annoying but didn’t’ bother me too much. Sure as heck didn't frighten me.

Now, it’s getting worse. The government thugs are here and we have fun new developments:

Roads are blocked coming up as far as my street. You cannot leave the city.
The city is closed. Hotels have locked their doors. Grocery stores are closed. Banks are closed.
I'm betting the airport is closed as well. (not that I plan to leave)
People are being kidnapped.
The government thugs shot up the newspaper last week and a TV station last night

Let me say that as a tourist/long-term visitor, I don't feel unsafe. Yet. It helps that I live in a veritable fortress on a hill. To get to me takes too much work. Plus...why?

Still, it's a rebellion and common sense dictates that running around during the chaos is simply STUPID. People are smart. Mobs are dumb. Better to stay put and wait it out.

And here I’d planned to go to the zocolo for lunch...

Two..Two...Two Sites in One!

Cacaxtla Pictures


Xochitecatl Pictures

Two sites, Cacaxtla and Xochitécatl, reside outside the little two of Tlaxcala and are almost on top of each other. And according to the people at the sites, even had an alliance at one point. Nor surprising when you can almost throw a rock and hit either one or the other.

We went to Cacaxtla first. Now abandoned (like most sites in Mexico) Cacaxtla reached it max splendor (700-900 AD) following the decline of Teotihuacán at the same time as other sites such as Vera Cruz, consolidated their power.

In it’s last phase, Cacaxtla was inhabited by the Olmeca-Xicalancas. Not sure who the Xocalancas were but the Olmecs were the ones that carved the GINORMOUS stone heads.

No giant stone heads here but there are murals in Cacaxtla. And they are just as impressive anything carved from stone. Distinctive for blending Teotihuacan and Maya Elements, the murals are wonderfully preserved site due to the fact they built a ginormous metal roof over the entire thing. So hey, there is something here of monolithic proportions!

It’s also a heck of a climb to get to the murals. I went with my father, uncle and Tony and we trundled around the site. It's impressive in an of itself what with the columns, rooms, etc. But the murals steal the show and I could have spent hours sitting there staring at them, but alas, when you travel with others they generally do NOT appreciate you sitting there while they waitr. sigh


If you ever go, make sure you stop on the way out for lunch. There’s a lovely woman making blue corn quesadilla’s that are too die for. I had pine with pumpkin flowers—YUM.

After lunch, we drove over to Xochitécatl. More traditional in that there are pyramids, etc. I climbed up them since that’s what I do!. What a wonderful view. I can see why these people (either Cacaxtla or Xochitécatl) considered themselves rulers of the area. It would be hard not too when you can see the entire valley at your feet. I know I was feeling fairly powerful standing up there.

There's also an intriguing spiral pyramid which they think was used for astronomical observation. Someone stuck a big cross on it. Frankly, I think that's a rude, but I guess I should be glad it wasn't a whole freaking church.

I should be queen. If I were, no one would stick crosses or churches on archaeological sites. I would make a good Queen. Benevolent. But tough.

Probably very little human sacrifice.

Cholula-Home to the Biggest Pyramid in the World

Cholula Pictures

An example of a blending of church and original religious site is Cholula. The names means ‘place of those who fled’ or ‘ Water that falls in the place of flight’. Either way, these people had run from something!

When you first see Cholula, all you see is a hill with a church on top of it. After walking around it and reading, you realize that it’s nota hill. It’s an ancient, uncovered pyramid. The biggest in the world. Not as tall as the one is Giza but larger in ground coverage.

Even more fun is that it is catacomb with tunnels. For 35 pesos, you can walk through them. I read somewhere that there are 5 miles of tunnel—not a shocker when one considers the size of the structure. Much to my disappointment, most are gated off. I can imagine that most people would get lost quite quickly. Then after a while they’d get claustrophobic.

I imagine at some point, they’d just start screaming and running around like a crazy person.

Even with the limited tunnel access, it’s an impressive site. After you so the ‘tunnel thing’ you can walk around the recently excavated areas and what you’ll notice is that the original people were really into alters. There is a set of three that are just south of the great pyramid. One faces North and the other two face east and west. Another uncovered one was used when sacrificing children during dry seasons. It was believed they were the messengers of Tlaloc an would ask for rain.

So I guess there is an alter for lots of contingencies.

Finally, another fun and interesting things to do in Cholula is buying road snacks AKA fried grasshoppers coated with chili powder. I know it sounds gross, but they were good as long as you didn’t’ look too close. A word on eating friend grasshoppers--get the small ones. The legs on the bigs ones are a little on the creepy side.

Wonder if they have an alter for those...Alter of the Sacrificial Grasshoppers...

Puebla--my visit to the big city

View Slideshow of Churches in Puebla

Wow--home again after traveling for a few weeks. Let's start with--PUEBLA

Puebla has a lot to offer. A large city, it offers shopping (for things like sneakers) which can be hard to find in Oaxaca. Plus, it’s an easy central location if one wants to visit some other archaeological sites.

What I loved about Puebla were the churches. Now, if you know me, I check the box that says ‘spiritual but not religious’ when forms insist on asking me about my religion. But, one does not have to be religious to appreciate great churches (not The Church). And churches are everywhere in Puebla. You cannot throw a rock without hitting one.

Rife with ornate tiles, guild and stone, they are impressive in their construction and the amount of money they contain. Which if you don’t mind me getting on a soapbox for a minute—would have been better spent to help the local people. Instead, the indigenous were made into slaves and their religious sites destroyed and the churches built on top of it.

So seeing a beautiful church in Mexico is much a yin/yang moment. They are beautiful. Amazing. Grand. But they were built on blood and one can’t every truly forget that.

Okay—off the soapbox...

Alas, poor Yolanda. We barely knew ye!

I got home last night to dead mice. Specifially. DEAD BABY MICE.

I was totally creeped out. Luckily, my Dad was here to dispose of the tiny carcasses. Ewwww.

I can handle dead animals out in the wild. Hunting doesn't bother me. But bodies in the house are just too much for me.

So I guess Pepe really is Yolanda.

Yoland was a mouse.
Small. Grey.
Not a great nouse, but a mouse nonetheless.
I'd say I'd miss her but I'd be lying.
Alas, poor Yolanda. We barely knew ye!

LIVE-From an Internet Cafe in Puebla, Mexico

First, an addition to the UNIVERSAL TRUTH LIST:

Barney is CREEPY in any language.

Second, my Dad is in town and I am traveling this week and possibly the next. So—for a little while the focus will NOT be on Oaxaca. Which is fine considering that I am RAPIDLY losing sympathy for the teachers.

Well, not the teachers but the radical faction that is remaining and making everyone miserable. They need to be smacked at this rate.

Anyway, Today I am on Puebla and am posting from an Internet cafe.
Puebla is a bigger city and very different from Oaxaca.

Oaxaca vs. Puebla

PUEBLA
SUPER -CLEAN. Not as clean as, say, Germany, but clean. Sadly, Oaxaca is litter city and that’s one of the things that I dislike about it.

NO GRAFFITI. Okay, very little graffiti. Again, I can only compare it to Oaxaca which has graffiti all over. And it’s not even good graffiti but crappy. Like peoples name. BORING

COPS: Normally, I am not a huge fan of having a plethora of cops around but here, in Mexico, I’m starting to like them. At least the ones in Puebla.

OAXACA
NICER PEOPLE. Homeless are a reality. In Oaxaca, even the homeless are polite. If they ask you for a few pesos and you say no, they smile no big deal. In Puebla, a little old lady tried to sell me a rosary and when I said ‘No thanks you” (cause I’m polite) I thought she was going to choke me with it.

Whatever she said, it wasn’t polite.

SMALL TOWN There is something about a small town which is just comfortable. Puebla is filled with cars and people are everywhere. And because it is bigger, it’s a heck of a lot harder to get around.

BETTER CHOCOLATE: What can I say. I am a sucker for chocolate and the BEST is found in Oaxaca.

Puebla, is a nice place to visit but I wouldn’t want to live here.

Note to self...be smarter than the mouse

Poison
Sticky Traps
Snap traps
Broom

None of it works. Pepe LIVES!

Damned mouse.

I think I'll make him into a pet. Maybe

Potty Mouth in Spanish Class

Ah yes, Spanish class. And once again, my teacher is falling over laughing.

Here's the sitch: Celso (my tutor) has a picture of three people and I have to describe them. A fairly simple task....one would think. I am going over the basic stuff-color of their hair, their height, etc.

Finally, I am saying their positions. And not--NOT anything porno ya bunch of pervs! Where they are and what they are doing.

The girl is sitting. One man is standing and the other man is leaning. I am TRYING to say that he is leaning. Well, apparently, the word for leaning, recargado, is very close (or it's very close the way I am trying to say it) to the word for taking a dump. (Frankly, not my favorite phrase but if you can come up with a better way to say it--let me know)

Anyway, I am SO EMPHATIC in trying to say this that it give the impression that the guy is taking a HUGE dump!! And one that lasts FOREVER!

I’d say, Poor Celso, but I’m fairly sure I was his entertainment for the afternoon!

The Mouse in My House

UPDATE 8/3: Cathy thinks we should name him Pepe--so let's go with that. I like that one because it's a male name and I can keep my delusion that there is NO CHANCE this rodent will give birth to more. I SWEAR, if that happens, I will find a new place to live!

Anyway, Pepe lives. He actually got caught by one of the sticky traps and GOT OFF of it! It was horrible though--he was running around with it. EEWWWW

**********************************************************

I’ve been under the gun with edits this week and so have stayed holed up in the house—so not much to write about unless you want to hear about editing. Which you don’t. Trust me.

BUT—I’m not alone. Oh noooooo. The Mouse that refused to be caught is still here. For a while I thought maybe he lived outside and was scooting in under the door. If so, he’s decided to live here now.

I got a good look at him this morning as he sat on a box, winked at me, and then flipped me off. Okay, maybe not flip me off but when a rodent is that brazen it’s like they’re giving you the finger.

Still, he’s a cute little guy. Or girl. Part of me wants to name him.

But the sane part of me realizes that it’s bad to name the animal you plan to exterminate.

I just wish he’d leave.

I Said WHAT?

I started Spanish lessons this week, and I’m attending a wonderful school called Amigos del Sol I have a tutor since I need flexible hour.

NOTE: if you come hear to learn Spanish I highly recommend Amigos del Sol. They are willing to be flexible and I was referred to them by both my uncle and my friend Dolly. That's two people--and I think any references are rare in any profession.

First, let me say that my teacher, Celso, is ADORABLE. Or as we say en Espanol: Es sensual. (he’s a hottie) So, a nice bonus. I get to learn Spanish AND the tutor is cute. He’s also about twenty years younger than me but I can look because I am NOT DEAD.

But as usual, I digress...

So, last night, we are talking in Spanish about movies. Well, he’s talking and I’m trying to talk. Want to make your tutor laugh? Have this conversation:

ME: (I am trying to say I want to see Johnny Depp in Pirates of the Caribbean.)What comes out of my mouth is: Quiero comer Jonny Depp en los piratas del Caribe

CELSO: “You want to WHAT?”

Because what I said does NOT mean I want to see Johnny Depp. It means: I want to EAT Johnny Depp.

Once I realized what I said, I blushed bright red, but then I said, “Si, Quiero comer Johnny Depp.” (Yes, I want to eat Johnny Depp)

I thought Celso was going to fall out of his chair.

Next week: more verbs! Maybe I can learn how to do other things to Johnny Depp....

My Oaxaca—City under siege? NOT!

Slideshow of Oaxaca

I’ve been reading the US newspapers in regards to Oaxaca and while some of their reporting is accurate, I have to say that I consider most of it either overblown or just wrong.

I was at the zocolo (square) this weekend and today and I saw no one with sticks or rocks. I was never threatened and have never been asked for my identification. I was here at the height of the protests and only once was I worried, and that was when I ended up on the wrong side of the barricade and people did have sticks and machetes.

Of course, they’d been tear-gassed and burned out of their tents just a few days earlier so who can blame them. It was also over a month ago and things have calmed down considerably.

But even then, their anger was never directed at tourists, and while I was nervous since mob mentalities can overwhelm common sense, I was safe then and I am safe now.

And figure I am a single, American woman wondering around by herself EVERY FREAKING DAY.

So, what I did today was take pictures of the zocolo--to show you MY Oaxaca. It's not too crowed as it was a weekday but there were stills some tourists. Not as many as there should be—that much is true.

The cancellation of the Guelaguetza has definitely hurt, but otherwise, it is business as usual and the indigenous are selling their wares in the zocolo and tourists are trying to strike a bargain.

There are also still teachers present, but not as many and not as vocal as far as I can tell.

On a side note: I was visiting Basilica de la Soledad (the Solitude) today because I 1) really like the architecture of churches and 2) they sell the BEST sherbet in the small courtyard. In the big stone courtyard, I was lucky enough to catch some dancers (Aztec I think). The costumes were impressive but what I took away was that when I asked to take their pictures, they were very gracious--like most of the people in Oaxaca.

I think that’s what irks me most about the American newspapers. They paint Oaxaca to be a city under siege with a everyone running around fearing for their lives.

They couldn’t be more wrong.

Mitla

Mitla Pictures

Today was another expedition day! THANK GOD—as I was going stir crazy. Note to self: Self—never go over a week without going someplace.

So, this morning I hopped a bus to Mitla.

A side note on the combination of roads and buses in Oaxaca. If you sit in the back, it will not matter if your bra is made of iron or if your 'too petite' to need a bra—you will be jiggled to death. I know I was. And the guy next to me got a free show …perv!

Anyway, thirty minutes later, I arrived in Mitla. I have to confess that is a bit of a tourist town. But, the ruins merit that. They aren’t as big as Monte Alban and more crowded than Yagul, but the friezes are amazing. Plus, there are tombs and you all know how I adore tombs!

What’s a frieze you ask? According to Websters.com: A decorative horizontal band, as along the upper part of a wall in a room.

And Mitla has friezes aplenty, and you do not see the same two side-by-side. Just they sheer volume and variation is mind-boggling. Now, throw in the fact they did NOT have metal tools or the wheel (so no grind stone) and you’ll be stunned!

I know I was (like a monkey).

Universal Truths

It has been a slow week in Oaxaca for me since I’ve been glued to my keyboard and trying to write. However, yesterday, I HAD to get out! So down to the zocolo for beer and quesadilla.

SIDENOTE: A few things about beer in Oaxaca. First, it's cheaper than water. Literally. And if you order beer, order it suero. That mean in a salt-rimmed glass with ice and about an inch of line juice in the bottom. Tastes great PLUS you feel like you’re getting vitamins while you get plastered off cheap beer.

Not that I get plastered here. Hey---I WALK everywhere and no one wants to see a drunk American girl weaving down the sidewalk.

Anyway, during my little afternoon jaunt, I encountered certain ‘universal truths’ (other than no one wants to see a drunk American girl weaving down the sidewalk)

1) If you don’t understand another language—the person talking to you WILL talk louder and more adamantly. Yes, its true. Not just something to laugh at in a Jackie Chan movie.

I was browsing in a shop and the shopkeeper started talking to me in Spanish (I get that a lot). I said that I do not speak Spanish, but that didn’t stop her. Nope. Just got LOUDER and more firm her what she was saying. It’s as if these people, by sheer will, will MAKE YOU UNDERSTAND.

I simply left.

2) If there is a family of four walking towards you, they INSIST on walking next to each other instead of in a line. Thereby, taking up the entire sidewalk. If you don’t move, they shoot you dirty looks and if you jump into the gutter that is flooded due to the BUCKETS OF RAIN we had yesterday—they simply see it as their ‘right’ to be sidewalk hogs.

3) A single woman, eating alone, is source of interest. From single men mostly, or men who act single, or men who’s wives don’t understand them...blah blah blah. Fuckwits... The upside? FREE LUNCH!

4) People with cell phones think their conversations are so interesting that they simply MUST share it with the rest of the room. Yes, even down here. People (I hate to say it but mainly Americans) yammer away, loudly, as if their lives are fascinating. I do NOT want to know the details of the ass boil you got lanced or the girl you knocked up. Ewwww. Private lives are just that—PRIVATE.

Now, let me tell you about...

More Screaming...Yes, I said MORE SCREAMING

I was talking on the phone with Marcos the other day, discussing the fact his computer was totally messed up (actually, I was trying to fix it from what, 2000 miles away, but didn't succeed), and what comes running at me from the other side of the room? A MOUSE.

Just an FYI—the cartoons have it right. My first reaction was to shriek and jump up in the chair.

The mouse fled. I probably scared the bejeezus out of it. I'm sure it went back to all the other mice and told them about this crazy lady in the purple house (yes, my house is purple. Did I ever mention that?)

Anyway, Marcos thought I was being knifed. I was that loud. I am not kidding--when I scream...I SCREAM.

I just don’t like mice. They skitter. I can’t take skittering,

Now, I have to kill the little beast. This is where I need a boyfriend. Some brave guy to come in and clear the house of little beasties that make me scream and jump into chairs.

Men. Where are they when you need them!

Oaxacan Drivers--Crazy As Snakes!

First, let me say that I did not coin the phrase "Crazy as Snakes”. I heard that from The Gunrunner (for those who are NOT keeping up, that’s the guy in New Hampshire. New Hampshire Guy was not a good name and way too long to type. The Gunrunner is much hotter. Again, I digress...)

So yes, drivers in Oaxaca are crazy as snakes. Why, you ask?

1)The fact that they pass each other around curves on mountain roads, in thick traffic, with cars coming at them.... Hell, anywhere. The roads here are not two lanes. They are 1.5 lanes. Weird, but that’s how it works. It's also amazingly frightening.

2) I walked to the store yesterday and there was someone DRIVING on the sidewalk. Yes, driving. Not parked (although I see a lot of that as well). Nope, just cruising down the sidewalk towards me!

3) Parking in the middle of traffic. I’ve seen it twice now. At a HUGE intersection, a guy had parked his car so he could give some stuff to another guy to sell. My bus was behind it and the buso drive actually got out—you never see that. No fight but it was close. Also,if they are ordering take-out from a restaurant. They’ll simply put on their blinkers and stop. Saw that too.

4) I’ve seen many an intersection where no one stops (not even to park in the middle). It’s like some huge metal ballet with cars weaving in and out as they try to get through. I shut my eye and wait for the crunch,

5) Not a crazy thing...just a tip and an FYI: Pedestrians do NOT have the “Right of Way" here. Cars will hit you and then the driver will keep going since the person probably doesn’t have car insurance and will go to jail. (Insurance is around 1000 a year and for people who average 500 a month, that’s a chunk of change). My advice? Cross in the middle of the road unless you're in the city. Yo udon't wnat to take a chance on them running the stoplight and hitting you. Big city--they do tend to stop at lights, but do watch yourself!

6) I’ve been told that many people do not drive at night with their headlights on due to the inaccurate notion that they think it will drain the battery. Haven’t seen it yet, but afte seeing this insanity, I believe it.

I am sure there will be more incidents and observations. Probably enough for an entire blog. Right now, I have to walk to the store.

Wish me luck!

Every Fifth Word

Yesterday was not a great day. I ran out of propane for the house (which means no stove and no hot water) and I was sick. I have no idea what I ate to make my tummy rumble, but I felt lousy. Today is better. Propane is here and stomach is settling.

And I have Terri to take care of me!

Terri is the owner of the house I am renting. She doesn’t speak English and I speak little Spanish but I do understand a little more than I can say. I get about every fifth word she says—which makes for some interesting conversation. She talks. I listen then smile and nod. Sometimes, I have no idea what I am agreeing to or acknowledging but so far, it seems to be working.

Miming helps.

Anyway, she found out I was sick and came over to take care of me. She made me tamales (not too picante) and mint tea. I have to say, that the tea is helping. I know mint is a natural stomach soother but totally forget there was some in the garden.

Trust Terri to remember.

Just an example of how a bad day can be turned around by one very nice person.

Yagul--Naked table dance or lunch...you decide

Yagul-View the Slide Show


Yagul. A lovely archaeological site just outside of Tlacolula, the name means ‘Old Stick’ pr ‘Old Tree’ and is one of the nicer sites to visit in that 1) it is a large site with palaces, temples, and if you want to hike upwards—very impressive fortifications and 2) for some reason, no one knows about it so you can have the place all to yourself.

Of course I had to go! I hopped a bus about 8:30 am and had them drop me off (no busses go there). From the drop off, it’s a 2 Km hike—not to bad. On the way in, two men (quite the young hotties and very buff from working on the farm) shouted at me, saying God-knows-what, but I ignored them. After all, I was on a mission and Yagul was waiting.

The site did NOT disappoint. When I arrived at Yagul, I had the entire place to myself! I mean there was NO ONE. Just three people who take money and this dog that ran all over the tops of the walls, hopping from one to another. I have to say, I was impressed with its four-legged dexterity.

So, I wondered around and since there was nothing that said “Don’t go here” I climbed down into the tombs. Sadly and expectedly, they were empty. Still, I had to stick my head inside.

Have you ever been inside a tomb? It’s damp and cool and smells like musty earth.
I love it. So I felt compelled to crawl inside the principle tomb at Patio 4. No, I didn't break any laws...it's set up that way as long as you don't mid getting dirty. Yes, I did lay there to see what it felt like and no, I did not visualize myself as dead. (Get those creepy thoughts out of your head!)

Finally, I walked up to the fortress to see the odd, carved bathtub. Who knows what it really is, but that’s sure what it looked like. And below it is nothing but cliffs. Good luck to the invaders that tried to scale that!

By this time, people were arriving (bastards!!), so I planted myself on a rock and spent about an hour or so, just enjoying the view of the site and wondering if once, when the site was occupied, was there a girl sitting in the same spot, watching the people below.

Finally, I hoofed it back to the highway and passed the same two hotties. Only this time, they invited me to lunch! I think. They were eating...motioning me to come over...and I said no. I wanted to, but I don’t know these men. And for all I know, they weren’t asking me to have lunch, they were asking me to dance naked on the table.

You decide...

The Screams...Oh My God...The SCREAMS

Two creatures I found in my house tonight:
1) Scorpion
2) Two roaches as big as my pinky

Thus ended the screaming portion of my evening

Monte Alban and staring like a stunned monkey

Monte Alban-View the Slide Show


Monte Alban. The name conjures up a city in the sky. Bloody sacrifices. A time lost. As for actually being there…there are no words for the feeling you get when standing in an archaeological site of this magnitude. Breathtaking? Awe-inspiring?



Mere trifles when compared to the overwhelming sense of time that rushes over you. For a moment, I wanted to cry. (for those of you who do not know me—I was an archaeologist for a number of years)

I told the New Hampshire guy (the one who says he want to bring me there for a few days but so far nothing, but I digress...) that I was stunned and he came up with the phrase. "Like a stunned monkey"

And that's fairly accurate. For a few minutes, I just stood there like a stunned monkey.

And then I got to walking. And being me, I had to go the opposite way of the group. I am sure they are lovely people, but when walking through Monte Alban, it is best done is silence, or it is for me, and not with a bunch of strangers.

So, I took the long way around, went by the lovely Abode and then finally up the stairs, coming into the Main plaza through the back side of the North Platform.

Again, I wanted to cry. I know...SUCH A BABY! But it’s MONTE ALBAN! GEEEEZ.

From there, it was a slow walk through the park, taking my time, soaking up history. Most of the platforms are roped off, but the South One is climbable. And I do mean climbing. It’s a very tall platform and the stairs are approximately 16 inches high. You will work your gluteus maximus on the way up. I was hurting and the thinner air did not help!

But it’s well worth the pain. From the South Platform you can see most of the complex and the valleys. I sat there for about two hours and just pictured what it must have been like at one time. Vendors? Children? Ceremonies?

And as I always seem to do, I met other writer’s. Two lovely women, Sabine and Greta, who came from a retreat and would soon be leaving, (Ladies, if you want any of the pictures, send me an email.)

Finally, it was time to make my way back to the main gate, but I never travel in a straight line and detoured through the North Platform and around the Ballcourt and finally ending up on the bus (I’ll talk about driving in Mexico in another blog)

I hated to leave. Loathed to go. There is still so much to explore! I didn’t even see Tomb104!

Guess I’ll have to go back.

Weirdness in Oaxaca

Okay. Maybe not weird. Some are just things I’ve never seen before and found interesting but I needed a catchy title.

Bugs: Most warm areas have huge bugs. Florida has palmetto’s (giant flying roaches) for example. Here we have beetles as big as my freaking fist. Tonight, I was innocently working when I hear the huge clatter at the window. I about jumped out of my skin as I thought it was a person banging on the glass (it was that loud). Nope. One of those damned giant beetles trying to get through the glass. Given time, it could probably do it...it was that HUGE.

Poor mans barbed wire. Most of the homes here are compounds—meaning that they are surrounded by high, brick walls. An industrious thief can climb. So people put cement on the top of the wall and imbed broken bottles and giant chards of glass into it.

Nice.

Poor man’s barbed wire. Part two: See above but instead of glass they plant bougainvillea around the wall. A lovely vine that grows like a weed, its covered with huge thorns. Going through bougainvillea is like going a tangle of razor wire. Good luck to the idiots who try to get through. You deserve to end up in the emergency room.

Dogs on roofs. What is that all about? Really? They scare the crap out of you because unless you’ve been by the place, you do not expect to see a DOG ON A ROOF.

Volkswagens. Not weird, but I wanted to point out they are everywhere since Volkswagen was one of the first car companies here. Do not play “Slug Bug’ while in Mexico or someone will wind up crippled.

From Santo Domingo to Dogs

Santo Domingo Pictures

Another lovely day in Mexico. I spend the day downtown, doing a little exploration at the Santo Domingo Ex-Convent and Cultural Center.

First, let me say, “Wow.” Reconstructed using the original techniques (I know this as the person who ran the project stayed at my uncles B&B”) it is unexpectedly Baroque. The walls are white plaster with a dull sheen and many of the ceiling and doorways are gilded. I wondered the halls for a few hours, sometimes just sitting and enjoying. What is there about a hallway that stretched forever that simply pleases the eye and just makes you want to see what’s around the corner at the end?

In addition to being a beautiful example of architecture, the building houses a museum in its many rooms (they were one bedroom for the monks, I assume). While the artifacts span the range from Mayan to Spanish conquest, I am always more interested in the Mayan.

Finally, you meet interesting people at museums. A guard followed me but apparently he didn’t think I was a thief….he asked me out (I said no). And I met a lovely couple from Arizona who are road-tripping through Central America. Sara is a writer as well (YA) and Sara if you’re reading this….I meant it when I said to email me!

An another note, I was walking to market, stopped to pet the puppy next door, and it’s mother tried to pee on me.

So, there it is. The balance of ‘wow’ with WTF.

Gotta have both!

Chicken with Swords

So far, no new adventures involving large sticks and machetes. The rest of this week has been low key with me learning how to do basic things like buy food at the market and drop off laundry . Why are these seemingly simple tasks so hard you ask?

It’s the money factor. What is what, what are they asking for, etc. I feel like a five year old.

Granted, there are ways around this issue. Going to the ‘traditional’ grocery store is easy. The price rings up and you can see how much to pay. Still, other than produce I have no idea what I am purchasing unless I happen to recognize the packaging. I think about a friend of mine who told me that when he and his friends were in a Mexican grocery store, they were trying to decipher food and at one point came up with “Chicken with Swords”

It’s a lot like that.

But other than the ‘what the hell am I buying aspect’, it’s like shopping in the states. If I wanted that, I’d still live in Texas.

So, a few days ago, I braved the small, open market down the street and had a blast. Everyone was lovely—from the little old lade who sold fresh corn tortillas at the entrance to the young man (Alberto, if I remember right) who spoke as much English as I do Spanish and sold me my fruits and veggies.

And talk about patient! I stumble on my Spanish...resort to miming and praying that certain hand symbols are international and not an insult...and they smile and talk slower (not louder!). Heck, even passerby’s stop to help me.

Tomorrow, I’m going back and I think the key will be to visit the same people. At least they know what to expect.

Next experience...the bus to Monte Alban!

A Day of Opposites

I’m a day or so behind because my first few days here in Oaxaca have been a whirlwind! I spent my first days with Dolly and Choon (they left this morning) and they were wonderful about showing me around.

So far, Oaxaca has been about opposites (for me). Yesterday was an interesting combo of fear and utter contentment,

The Scary Bit

Right now, the teachers of the State of Oaxaca are on strike and during the strike, all 40,000 march to the Oaxaca city (where I now live). This happens every year. They barter for better wages and eventually strike a deal. This year, it’s different. There is a new governor, and instead of negotiating, he decided to tear gas them and burn their tents.

It was chaotic. People died (rumor has it).

Yesterday there was a peace march to show solidarity. And though the was no violence, people were prepared for it. We saw men with sticks, lead pipes and machetes, and I have to say that made me very nervous.

I’ve never been in anything like this before and the one thing that stood out was the anxious, expectant energy that surged through the crowd. The air rippled with it.

And the fact that is was so prevalent that it was tangible made me more nervous. People are good. Mobs can get very ugly very fast, even when peaceful. At one point, Dolly, Choon and I were on the WRONG SIDE of the barriers and the teachers were hesitant to let us through—driving home the fact that we not in a good place.

Luckily, they finally let us through. I have to say...I was a bit scared. When we walked away, I realized my heart was pounding!

The Contentment Bit

From the chaos, we took a taxi to get a massage. On a side note-- in the hour that we were in the hotel before the taxi came, the march had grown. Streets were blocked with dump trucks and where there was no barrier, there was a sea of people.

It was like being in a movie—the American’s driving through the street with people on either side.

Anyway, we arrived at the location. Lovely. It’s very inexpensive and for the first hour, you sweat in a kiva. And I mean SWEAT. A shamaness comes in to pray over you and tap you with sacred herbs. Very relaxing—even in the immense heat. And when you're finished, you know you've sweated out impurities and toxins.

From there, you go out to the massage area. This is not like the States. There are no tables. You lay on a mat and they are right there with you. They put more herbs down for you to inhale while they rub you down for an hour. When I was there, there was a thunderstorm. Think about it. Massage. Herbs. Music inside and rain on the tin roof.

It doesn’t get any better.

I love this place!

Life By The Throat--Moving to Oaxaca, Mexico

I’m forty –thousand feet above the globe and on my way to Oaxaca Mexico. To live. The past few weeks of my life have been chaos and a little sad (see the other blog for that drama). So, I decided it was time for a change. Not a do-over but a start-over.

Would you like to know the key to starting over (to me). MOVE! Call me crazy, but it’s almost impossible to reinvent yourself when you’re surrounded by people with preconceived expectations as to your behavior.

Hence, the sudden move. Or maybe not so sudden. It’s been in the making, but it was just last week that I said to myself, “Self, (I said) get the hell out of Texas.”

I bought the ticket on Thursday and left today (Tues). That should tell you the kind of person I am. Some might call it Reckless. Impulsive. A little cracked...

What do I think I am? A friend of mine named Cindy Dees (buy her books!) summed my attitude up and paid me a lovely compliment at the same time. She said that one of the things she loves about me is that “I grab life by the throat. So many people hem and haw and you (Sharron) just go do it.”

Life by the Throat. I like that. That’s what I want to be. That’s who I want to be.

So, here I am. New adventure. New life.

New me.